Sales Policy and Information
*please read carefully before putting down a deposit!*
*please read carefully before putting down a deposit!*
Our kids are all very friendly and have a lot of interaction with humans. They also know LGDs (Livestock Guardian Dogs).
All our kids will be put on a Coccidiosis prevention plan with two weeks of age.
With 4 weeks, all kids will receive their first CD&T vaccine and dewormer*.
At 6 and 8 weeks, all kids will receive their CD&T booster shots.
All our kids will leave our farm disbudded and tattooed.
(*I realize there are some buyers that prefer their kid(s) not to be vaccinated, dewormed or disbudded.
I am more than happy to meet your preference as long as the kid has been paid for in full.)
All of our goats are registered with either the ADGA (American Dairy Goat Association) or the AGS (American Goat Society) and most are dual registered.. Animals will come with their registration papers unless otherwise noted.
Kids are named in bloodline themes. However, we do allow buyers to name kids on occasion.
We are unable to change a kids' name once it is registered, so if you wish to name your kid, please notify us as soon as possible.
If you would like to reserve a kid, please contact me and let me know which breeding you would like to reserve a kid from. Reservations on unborn kids are free and first come first serve.
As soon as the kid(s) is(are) born, I will send out emails to the interested parties in order. Once you have been emailed regarding kid availability, you will have 48hrs to respond back, after 48hrs we will forfeit your turn to the next person on the reservation list.
If you're still interested in buying (a) kid(s) from us, then there is a $100 deposit ($50 deposit for wethers) that is payable within 24hrs to hold the kid(s) as yours. The remaining balance is required at the pick-up of animal and needs to paid in cash or via PayPal.
Deposits are non-refundable, meaning as soon as you decide to put money down on (a)kid(s) and you decide you don't want the kid(s) anymore for whatever reason, I will put the kid back up for sale for someone else, but you will not receive your deposit back.
Wethers are bucks until the time of banding which I do as close to the pickup date as possible.
Kids must be picked up on the agreed date and if kid (s) is(are) not picked up by that date, a boarding fee will apply per day per kid(s) until picked up.
Our current boarding fee is $5 per day per kid.
However, boarding is only available for 14 days. If you don’t pick up your kid(s) within the 14 days after the agreed date, the deposit will be forfeited and the kid(s) will go back up for sale. Kids are typically ready to leave at about 9-10 weeks.
I do not bring the kid(s) to you.
Shipping is available and you are fully responsible for all costs and risks.
Because breeding is not an exact science and we cannot predict how a kid will turn out, no guarantees are made concerning adult height and other standards for bucks or does.
No guarantees are made in regards to the confirmation or milk production of any goat sold.
No guarantees are made that a goat will not grow scurs.
We reserve the right to retain any goat.
We reserve the right to cancel any transaction for any reason we deem necessary. This can be done up until the Bill of Sale/Transfer is signed. Should we choose to cancel a contract, the full amount of any monies paid will be refunded.
All sales are final. Due to circumstances beyond our control, once a goat leaves the farm no refund is offered. No returns. No exceptions.
I do recommend that you have your vet checking on the goat(s) you purchased from our farm for a well-being check and a fecal exam approximately three weeks after bringing them home.
Our kids are all very friendly and have a lot of interaction with humans. They also know LGDs (Livestock Guardian Dogs).
All our kids will be put on a Coccidiosis prevention plan with two weeks of age.
With 4 weeks, all kids will receive their first CD&T vaccine and dewormer*.
At 6 and 8 weeks, all kids will receive their CD&T booster shots.
All our kids will leave our farm disbudded and tattooed.
(*I realize there are some buyers that prefer their kid(s) not to be vaccinated, dewormed or disbudded.
I am more than happy to meet your preference as long as the kid has been paid for in full.)
All of our goats are registered with either the ADGA (American Dairy Goat Association) or the AGS (American Goat Society) and most are dual registered.. Animals will come with their registration papers unless otherwise noted.
Kids are named in bloodline themes. However, we do allow buyers to name kids on occasion.
We are unable to change a kids' name once it is registered, so if you wish to name your kid, please notify us as soon as possible.
If you would like to reserve a kid, please contact me and let me know which breeding you would like to reserve a kid from. Reservations on unborn kids are free and first come first serve.
As soon as the kid(s) is(are) born, I will send out emails to the interested parties in order. Once you have been emailed regarding kid availability, you will have 48hrs to respond back, after 48hrs we will forfeit your turn to the next person on the reservation list.
If you're still interested in buying (a) kid(s) from us, then there is a $100 deposit ($50 deposit for wethers) that is payable within 24hrs to hold the kid(s) as yours. The remaining balance is required at the pick-up of animal and needs to paid in cash or via PayPal.
Deposits are non-refundable, meaning as soon as you decide to put money down on (a)kid(s) and you decide you don't want the kid(s) anymore for whatever reason, I will put the kid back up for sale for someone else, but you will not receive your deposit back.
Wethers are bucks until the time of banding which I do as close to the pickup date as possible.
Kids must be picked up on the agreed date and if kid (s) is(are) not picked up by that date, a boarding fee will apply per day per kid(s) until picked up.
Our current boarding fee is $5 per day per kid.
However, boarding is only available for 14 days. If you don’t pick up your kid(s) within the 14 days after the agreed date, the deposit will be forfeited and the kid(s) will go back up for sale. Kids are typically ready to leave at about 9-10 weeks.
I do not bring the kid(s) to you.
Shipping is available and you are fully responsible for all costs and risks.
Because breeding is not an exact science and we cannot predict how a kid will turn out, no guarantees are made concerning adult height and other standards for bucks or does.
No guarantees are made in regards to the confirmation or milk production of any goat sold.
No guarantees are made that a goat will not grow scurs.
We reserve the right to retain any goat.
We reserve the right to cancel any transaction for any reason we deem necessary. This can be done up until the Bill of Sale/Transfer is signed. Should we choose to cancel a contract, the full amount of any monies paid will be refunded.
All sales are final. Due to circumstances beyond our control, once a goat leaves the farm no refund is offered. No returns. No exceptions.
I do recommend that you have your vet checking on the goat(s) you purchased from our farm for a well-being check and a fecal exam approximately three weeks after bringing them home.
Helpful Information
First off, I am NOT a veterinarian and make no claims. Everything I do is what works for our herd. It took a lot of research and experience to get to that point.
Since every situation is different, I highly recommended that you check with your vet as to how to best treat your herd.
Once our animal(s) leave(s) our property, I cannot and will not be held responsible for their health, or any issues that may occur at any point.
Goats do need care and I am happy to answer all questions that might come up, and that I can answer.
FEED / WATER:
Goats need fresh water available at all times. I flush and fill all water buckets daily and clean them thoroughly every week.
We feed our goats Alfalfa and Orchard Grass hay free choice in addition, they are out for browsing and grazing.
Contrary to what you can read on the Internet and Facebook, most of us do not have an adequate variety of browse so that goats can live on pasture alone. It's just not feasible. Goats also cannot survive on grass hay alone. Its simply not high enough in protein. Goats, especially growing kids, need at least 16% protein, adequate vitamins and minerals, and a well balanced diet to grow to their potential.
We decided to buy our grain from Rietdyk's Feed Store. We feed a freshly milled grain, without any preservatives, called Dairy 16.
However, Rietdyk's is a local, family owned business and most won't be able to make a trip there just for feed. But there are many commercially available goat pellets available that are meeting the nutritional needs of a growing or producing animal.
I don’t recommend feeding grain to wethers due to higher risk of Urinary Calculus.
We also offer free choice minerals, goat care pails and baking soda to all of our goats at all times.
Selenium/Copper/Vitamin B:
The area of the country where we live, is very selenium deficient, which is a mineral goats need. Although goat mineral contains selenium, we found that it is not enough. We do give our herd Selenium/Vitamin E paste four times a year.
Same goes for Copper. Usually, goat minerals don’t contain enough copper. Our goats get copper boluses once or twice a year.
Vitamin B is also very very important for goats. Not only do goats need it for staying healthy, it can also help them when being sick and I give it together with dewormer, and coccidiosis prevention. Again, I’m happy to answer your questions!
Please note: Goats are browsers. They like to roam around and eat brush, shrubs, bushes, and trees - pretty much everything they can find. I cannot emphasize that enough : PLEASE PLEASE check what kind of plants they would have access to! If you have any questions regarding poisoning plants, here is a great website:
https://fiascofarm.com/goats/poisonousplants.htm
When introducing new feed of any type to your goats, please start with small amounts and slowly increase.
LONGTERM CARE:
Goats need their hooves trimmed approximately every 6-8 weeks.
I do deworm our goats only when needed and I use different dewormers such as Ivermectin, Safeguard, Valbazen, Cydectin, Quest Plus….
However, I never schedule deworming as this might lead to resistance. There are different ways to check for worms and I’m happy to answer your questions.
All our goats are vaccinated (CD/T shot).
All pregnant does will be given their annual CD&T vaccine approximately four weeks before kidding as this will pass some immunization to the unborn kids.
Every year, our entire herd (incl sheep) are tested for OPP, Johne's, CL, CAE, Q-Fever, and Brucella through WADDL.
Since every situation is different, I highly recommended that you check with your vet as to how to best treat your herd.
Once our animal(s) leave(s) our property, I cannot and will not be held responsible for their health, or any issues that may occur at any point.
Goats do need care and I am happy to answer all questions that might come up, and that I can answer.
FEED / WATER:
Goats need fresh water available at all times. I flush and fill all water buckets daily and clean them thoroughly every week.
We feed our goats Alfalfa and Orchard Grass hay free choice in addition, they are out for browsing and grazing.
Contrary to what you can read on the Internet and Facebook, most of us do not have an adequate variety of browse so that goats can live on pasture alone. It's just not feasible. Goats also cannot survive on grass hay alone. Its simply not high enough in protein. Goats, especially growing kids, need at least 16% protein, adequate vitamins and minerals, and a well balanced diet to grow to their potential.
We decided to buy our grain from Rietdyk's Feed Store. We feed a freshly milled grain, without any preservatives, called Dairy 16.
However, Rietdyk's is a local, family owned business and most won't be able to make a trip there just for feed. But there are many commercially available goat pellets available that are meeting the nutritional needs of a growing or producing animal.
I don’t recommend feeding grain to wethers due to higher risk of Urinary Calculus.
We also offer free choice minerals, goat care pails and baking soda to all of our goats at all times.
Selenium/Copper/Vitamin B:
The area of the country where we live, is very selenium deficient, which is a mineral goats need. Although goat mineral contains selenium, we found that it is not enough. We do give our herd Selenium/Vitamin E paste four times a year.
Same goes for Copper. Usually, goat minerals don’t contain enough copper. Our goats get copper boluses once or twice a year.
Vitamin B is also very very important for goats. Not only do goats need it for staying healthy, it can also help them when being sick and I give it together with dewormer, and coccidiosis prevention. Again, I’m happy to answer your questions!
Please note: Goats are browsers. They like to roam around and eat brush, shrubs, bushes, and trees - pretty much everything they can find. I cannot emphasize that enough : PLEASE PLEASE check what kind of plants they would have access to! If you have any questions regarding poisoning plants, here is a great website:
https://fiascofarm.com/goats/poisonousplants.htm
When introducing new feed of any type to your goats, please start with small amounts and slowly increase.
LONGTERM CARE:
Goats need their hooves trimmed approximately every 6-8 weeks.
I do deworm our goats only when needed and I use different dewormers such as Ivermectin, Safeguard, Valbazen, Cydectin, Quest Plus….
However, I never schedule deworming as this might lead to resistance. There are different ways to check for worms and I’m happy to answer your questions.
All our goats are vaccinated (CD/T shot).
All pregnant does will be given their annual CD&T vaccine approximately four weeks before kidding as this will pass some immunization to the unborn kids.
Every year, our entire herd (incl sheep) are tested for OPP, Johne's, CL, CAE, Q-Fever, and Brucella through WADDL.
